{"id":501,"date":"2026-06-11T14:16:49","date_gmt":"2026-06-11T14:16:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/commercialrelocationpros.com\/?p=501"},"modified":"2026-06-11T14:16:49","modified_gmt":"2026-06-11T14:16:49","slug":"fruit-is-too-sweet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/commercialrelocationpros.com\/?p=501","title":{"rendered":"Fruit Is Too Sweet"},"content":{"rendered":"<section>\n<p>If it is possible, in this fascinating age, to be a celebrity fruit, the Sumo Citrus is definitely a celebrity fruit. The mandarin-satsuma-orange hybrid, originally developed in Japan and brought to American grocery stores in 2011, is by far the most popular new member of the citrus family, accounting for almost a third of the entire sector\u2019s recent growth. This winter, like the winter before, my local Trader Joe\u2019s displayed piles of them in prime position, and many times the store would be half sold-out before sunset. Sumos are discovered anew every season on social media, where people talk about their adorable bumpy heads, their generous size, and\u2014oh!\u2014their sweetness.<\/p>\n<p>Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/commercialrelocationpros.com\/?p=499\">Inside America\u2019s Ugly Birthday Battle<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Of course. As soon as you taste one, you understand. The eye-widening, tongue-coating syrupyness; the sticky dribble down your chin; the sensation of eating candy that is, somehow, also fruit, a feeling that is a teeny tiny bit like you are robbing a bank at breakfast. Food scientists measure sweetness using the Brix scale, which indicates the percentage of a given dissolved solid (sugar, basically) in a fruit\u2019s juice. The average grocery-store mandarin orange\u2014the kind that lived, oblivious and happy, in fruit bowls across the United States until relatively recently; the kind that doesn\u2019t have a robust online fandom\u2014falls somewhere from 8 to 11 degrees Brix. Sumos have been known to reach up to 18.<\/p>\n<p>The American grocery-store produce aisle is sweeter than it has ever been, crammed full of fruit a lot like the Sumo, created for an eating public that has repeatedly demonstrated it wants sweet, and will pay for it. Driscoll\u2019s Sweetest Batch berries are notably sweeter (and notably more expensive) than the company\u2019s traditional ones; last year, they accounted for $400 million in sales. Fresh Del Monte, meanwhile, has the Honeyglow, a pineapple that bears the slogan \u201cWhen we say sweet, we mean sweet.\u201d Cotton Candy grapes are a $100 million concern, one that now has competition from a slew of other designer grapes with similarly ultra-sweet flavor profiles and kindercore, trademarked names: Candy Heart, Sweet Sapphire, Gum Drops.<\/p>\n<p>But even the non-name-brand fruit is sweeter than it used to be, and is getting a little more so all the time. This year\u2019s Sweetest Batch will be regular-degular grocery-store berries in five years, and the Sweetest Batch will be replaced by an even-sweeter-est batch\u2014sugar bombs, everywhere you look, enabled in equal part by scientific advancement and by consumer appetite. Today\u2019s grapefruit are less bitter than the ones your grandparents ate, having had the naringin\u2014the compound that creates bitterness\u2014largely cultivated out of them. Stone fruits are being bred for sweetness too.<\/p>\n<p>The chef and cookbook author Alison Roman told me that she recently noticed that the blueberries she was feeding her toddler were sweet and wan, with no acidity. Claire Saffitz, another recipe developer, has found something similar with contemporary watermelon: \u201cso incredibly sweet,\u201d she told me, but also, somehow, less watermelony. Some years ago, zookeepers in Melbourne , noticed something alarming\u2014the red pandas in their care were developing tooth decay. The problem, as it turned out, was this: The zookeepers were feeding the animals commercial fruit in an attempt to mimic the diet they\u2019d have in the wild, and it was so high in sugar that it was rotting their little teeth. Humans had manipulated nature to such a degree that nature could not keep up.<\/p>\n<p>Sweetest Batch, Sumo, and just about every other fruit on the market are the products of selective breeding\u2014the tedious, iterative work of smushing different varietals\u2019 DNA together over and over, letting the desirable genes survive and the less desirable ones die off. That process is playing out all across the industry. \u201cThey\u2019re starting to premium-ize the best, and then that raises the whole,\u201d Courtney Weber, a berry horticulturist at Cornell\u2019s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, told me. \u201cEverything is just getting better.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Better can mean bigger, brighter, more nutritious, more disease resistant\u2014but in the grocery store, better typically means sweeter. In this country, at least, people tend to choose sweet fruit when given the choice, and these days people have many more choices than they used to. In 1862\u2014when Henry David Thoreau described wild apples in this magazine as \u201csour enough to set a squirrel\u2019s teeth on edge and make a jay scream\u201d\u2014fruit was just something that grew on trees, not a multibillion-dollar global business. To the degree that people ate farmed fruit at all, they got it from small farms, with breeding operations that were casual and relatively unscientific.<\/p>\n<p>But over time, the industry grew, farming was professionalized, and the product was standardized. More recently, varietals became lucrative intellectual property (hence all those trademarks), and for-profit breeders began, naturally, looking for the most commercially viable \u201ceating profile\u201d\u2014nature\u2019s sour unruliness bent to humanity\u2019s will. By 1992, the patent for the Pink Lady apple noted its sugar content and \u201chigh quality dessert type fruits\u201d; now new apples are advertising their \u201cirresistible sweetness.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>As technological advancement enabled the production of ever-sweeter fruit, cultural changes enabled the appetite for it. Humans have always liked sweet, but in recent years, MAHA, modern parenting orthodoxy, diet culture, and new nutrition research have conspired to turn all kinds of people off processed sugar. Fruit feels virtuous, even if it no longer tastes that way (in an email to me, Driscoll\u2019s described Sweetest Batch berries as \u201cindulgent\u201d and \u201cnutritious\u201d in equal measure, noting both their \u201cintensely sweet, candy-like flavor\u201d and their vitamin content). In a snack-addicted and convenience-obsessed culture, fruit is, more and more, being pitched as portable food, presliced and plastic-wrapped in single-serving portions\u2014and if you\u2019re competing for taste buds with Nerds Gummy Clusters, there\u2019s a lot of incentive to try to taste like them. (Zespri\u2019s SunGold kiwifruits, which have been bred for higher sugar and less fur, advertise themselves on every clamshell as a \u201cnutritious sweet snack.\u201d) Recently, Kate Lebo, a baker and writer, began noticing that in the grocery store, fruit was being \u201cpresented to me as candy, as something that was a convenient food I could just unwrap and shove into my mouth without thinking very much about it.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Lebo doesn\u2019t really like sweet fruit. \u201cSweetness without acid is boring,\u201d she told me. \u201cIt\u2019s insipid.\u201d There\u2019s a reason 2-year-olds and red pandas love it. \u201cIt\u2019s just kind of one-note\u2014and not that interesting,\u201d Roman said. \u201cIf something\u2019s too sweet, you\u2019re sort of missing the point of what makes it good.\u201d Cotton candy isn\u2019t a flavor: It\u2019s just spun sugar.<\/p>\n<p>Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/commercialrelocationpros.com\/?p=497\">Disneyland With No People<\/a><\/p>\n<p>When Lebo teaches pie-making classes, she tells her students that if an apple, or any fruit, tastes good out of hand or makes sense in a lunch box, it is not a good baking apple. She, like the other chefs I spoke with, prefers more complex fruit: Sugar is easy to add, but flavor does not come in a bag. \u201cYou want something that kind of hurts a little bit when you take a bite, it\u2019s so sour, if you can even find that,\u201d she said. \u201cAnd you can\u2019t at the grocery store.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>What you <em>can<\/em> find is a much wider variety and much higher quality of fruit than you once could. \u201cIt\u2019s incredible what the berry industry has done in the last 20 years,\u201d Weber, the Cornell horticulturist, told me. A likely thing for a member of the berry industry to say, but, he\u2019s right, of course. Thanks precisely to efforts such as Driscoll\u2019s, berries are not only sweeter but bigger, more beautiful, and much more abundant than they were even in recent history. When Saffitz, the recipe developer, was a kid, not so long ago, \u201cthere were, like, three apples in the supermarket.\u201d Now there are dozens\u2014and pomegranates and blood oranges and pert glossy blackberries, even in winter, even in the middle of nowhere. \u201cPeople complain\u2014it\u2019s like, <em>Oh, they don\u2019t look like they did when I was a kid<\/em>,\u201d Weber said. \u201cYou didn\u2019t get them when you were a kid. You only got them in the middle of summer, when they were picked in a local field. And of course, that\u2019s going to be better. But that\u2019s not reality, right?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The reality is that in many ways, today\u2019s grocery-store fruit is less like a once-living thing and more like a high-end electronic. It is rigorously tested for quality and consistency\u2014the company that invented Cotton Candy grapes has employed secret shoppers to ensure that its name-brand fruit is never sold with a Brix degree lower than 19. It is developed over a period of years by obsessive geniuses who are optimizing for beauty and functionality (possibly on a gorgeous corporate campus in California). It is designed, above all, to sell.<\/p>\n<p>Sweetness is, from a genetic standpoint, \u201cprobably the least complex of the flavors,\u201d Weber told me. In the context of industrial agriculture, <em>complex<\/em> is usually a bad thing. Fructose comes in big, hearty branches of oxygen, hydrogen, and carbon; esters, the microscopic compounds that make melon melony and grapes grapey, are much more fragile. They don\u2019t necessarily survive well in the cold, or for long, and the process by which fruit gets from a farm in Chile to an acai bowl in Kentucky is nothing if not cold and long.<\/p>\n<p>Acid may be the antidote to what Lebo would call insipid sweetness, but it is risky. People like it in balance, but they really, really dislike it when it goes too far\u2014and something as unpredictable as a few unfortunately timed rainy weeks during the growing season can halt sugar production and make fruit sourer. \u201cThe danger is all acid and no sugar,\u201d Weber told me. \u201cPeople would prefer sweet with acid, given the choice. But if you\u2019re in the fruit-selling business and you sell somebody something that\u2019s sour, you\u2019re going to lose money.\u201d Sweetness is, simply put, safe\u2014on the commercial market, and on the way there. It is easier to breed for, easier to control, easier to advertise, easier to describe, easier to love.<\/p>\n<p>The quince is a relative of the pear and the apple, but much less sweet. Lebo, the pie baker, loves them. About five years ago, she was looking to buy a quince tree for her yard, and she kept noticing something. With most of the cultivars she found, she told me, \u201cwhat the growers wanted me to get excited about was how sweet the quince was, and that is not what attracts me to that fruit at all.\u201d What attracts her to quince, actually, is the opposite: its sourness, an astringency that is nearly inedible raw but that transforms into something sublime and floral when the fruit is cooked.<\/p>\n<p>This is the essence of quince, and quince is one of our most essential fruits, dating back to antiquity. Charlemagne demanded that their trees be planted in his imperial orchards; Edward I installed them near the Tower of London in 1275. Many scholars now believe it was a quince, and not an apple, that Eve ate in the Garden of Eden\u2014that gave her all that forbidden knowledge, that showed her the world in its sharp complexity, its pleasure and pain. It is supposed to be sour. It is supposed to require some elbow grease.<\/p>\n<p>The wild apples of Thoreau\u2019s time are mostly gone. Maybe the quince that Lebo loves will be, too\u2014ancient genes bred out and discarded in favor of something new. This is what we wanted. We traded complexity for convenience. We wanted watermelon in January, and we got it. We fed our families. We felt good about it. Saffitz doesn\u2019t want to be overly negative, she told me\u2014as someone who really loves fruit, she\u2019s aware of how lucky she is to get such a variety of it at the grocery store in her town. But, she told me, \u201cI miss fruit tasting like fruit.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/commercialrelocationpros.com\/?p=495\">Hunter Biden\u2019s Life After Shame<\/a><\/p>\n<\/section>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It\u2019s like candy now\u2014for better or for worse.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":500,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-501","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-culture"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Fruit Is Too Sweet - Commercial Relocation Pros<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/commercialrelocationpros.com\/?p=501\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Fruit Is Too Sweet - 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